Friday, July 31, 2009

The Knit Nook "Beer Summit" 2009

Every knitter loves their LYS (Local Yarn Store). I am no exception.
The Knit Nook is quite the yarn haven! You should definitely make a visit if & when you find yourself in Louisville, KY.

IMG_3772

Please note fabulous tshirt design by SteigerBeat

I am rarely able to get to the Thursday S & B (Stitch & Bitch) during the school year. Yesterday was the last I'll be able to attend for a while... especially when I resume teaching after school art classes. The owners & patrons are a wonderful group of people who kindly indulge my geeky quirks & foibles... knitterly & otherwise.


I got a wild hair yesterday to celebrate the occurrence of the most wonderfully sensible-yet-ridiculous "Beer Summit" by having our own at the S & B.

IMG_3739

(Apparently, Professor Gates' choice was changed from Red Stripe to Sam Adams Light... we were working with the best info we had at the time. Both of the professor's choices were considered the best options by all us knitterly types.)
More pictures of actual knitters, knitted items, adorable babies & toddlers are posted on the Knit Nook Forum on ravelry...

Monday, July 20, 2009

The BuckyBag!... A Fulled Tribute to Fuller!

This Summer has been far more hectic than I had hoped.

I told myself I just needed a simple, mindless knit-until-you’re-done stressbuster... I swear!

This is mindless once you understand the concept... (If you have two sets of dpns so you don't have to count at all, really.)

I actually wrote down the pattern notes as I went.
I was just playing with the Celestine idea of seamlessly connected geometric shapes with a Fuller inspired set of pentagons & hexagons.

At first, I was not sure if it would felt as a sphere or a star...

Buckminster Fuller, I LUUURVE you!


The BuckyBag!... A Fulled Tribute to Fuller!

Yarn:
~2 skeins Black Cascade 22o
~3 skeins Lion Wool prints

Needles:
~2 sets size 9 dpns
(You can do it on one set, but it gets overly fiddly & a pain to count without at least 7 dpns)
~1 size 9 circular (24" or 32" is fine)

Notions:
~yarn needle
~a knowledge of basic felting (fulling, really)

Pattern for a Pentagon:

CO 17 sts each on 5 dpns (pick up 17 sts from a CO edge when needed)

Knit 5 rounds (3 black, 2 in print wool)

Begin decreases:

Each dpn, k2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk.

Knit 2 rounds

When you have 3 sts on each dpn:

Knit 2 rounds, then sl1, k2tog, Psso.

Break yarn, use yarn needle to run yarn through loops, pull tight & tie off.

(Just like finishing a beanie hat!)

Pattern for a Hexagon:

CO 17 sts each on 6 dpns (pick up 17 sts from a CO edge when needed)

Knit 5 rounds (3 black, 2 in print wool)

Begin decreases:

Each dpn, k2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk.

Knit 2 rounds

When you have 3 sts on each dpn:

Knit 2 rounds, then sl1, k2tog, Psso.

Break yarn, use yarn needle to run yarn through loops, pull tight & tie off.

Pattern for a Half-Hexagon:

Pick up 18 sts on pentagon edge, 17 sts on hexagon edge, 18 sts on adjoining pentagon edge

(This will be knit in flat stockinette!... Don't forget to purl back.)

K 5 rows, sl 1st st of every row, knit or purl (3 rows black, 2 rows in print wool)

Begin Decreases: (Some will be done on the purl side!)

Knit side decreases:

Sl1, K2tog, K to last 2 sts, ssk./K2tog, K to last 2 sts, ssk./K2tog, K to last 3 sts, ssk, K1.

Purl side decreases:

Sl1, P2tog, P to last 2 sts, ssp./P2tog, P to last 2 sts, ssp./P2tog, P to last 3 sts, ssp, P1

*Always have 2 rows between decrease rows*

When there are 3 sts on each dpn, work 2 more rows flat.

The RS, or Knit side should be facing you.

(Sl1, K2 tog, psso)* each dpn, 3sts total remain

Turn to WS, Sl1, K2 tog, psso to BO.


Method of Assembly:
1. Begin with a black pentagon...
2. Cast on five sides of a hexagon & pick up the last side on the cast on edge of one side of the original pentagon.
3. For the next three Hexagons, cast on four sides, pick up one side from the last hexagon & pick up one side from the abutting side of the original pentagon.
4. For the fifth hexagon, cast on three sides, pick up one side from the last hexagon, pick up one side from the abutting side of the original pentagon & pick up one side (the only available edge) of your first hexagon.
It will look a bit like this:

5. Make five pentagons, one between each set of touching hexagons by casting on three sides and picking up the last two to connect the shapes.

6. Add five half-hexagons, one between each set of touching pentagons & hexagons to make a "finished" half sphere.

7. Pick up 240 sts in black, place marker at beginning of round & knit for 6 rounds.

8. Switch to the print & knit for 8-10 rounds, or until your yarn is gone.

9. Switch back to black & knit 3 rounds

10. (K10, K2tog)* = 220 sts.

11. Knit 2 rounds

12. (K9, K2tog)* = 200 sts.

13. Knit 2 rounds

14. (K8, K2tog)* = 180 sts.

15. Knit 2 rounds

16. (K7, K2tog)* = 160 sts.

17. Knit 6 rounds

18. Knit 20 sts on one dpn, BO 20 sts. Repeat 3X for 4 handle bases.

19. Each handle:

Knit 20 rows in stockinette using dpns, slipping the 1st stitch of each row.

Sl 1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, ssk, k1 = 18 sts.

Purl all sts

Repeat until 14 sts remain.

Knit 10 rows in stockinette.

Repeat this on all 4 handle bases.

Graft handles together using Kirchner stitch (instructions abound online).

Full your bag using your favorite method. I used my washing machine for 14 min on permanent press cycle.

It’s Felt-tastic!


I then went ape and made Sammy a soccer ball using the same ideas:

I had a brain pop to turn it into a hat... I'll actually write that up as a real pattern & post it, too.

Summer Weight Cotton Worsted Chullos!


(this is the photo from the online pattern)
Well. I saw this pattern online & fell totally in love!

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/ozyarn-archived

What a gorgeous & super quick knit! Who knew?

However, the wool chullo was VERY warm.

I’ve now used up some worsted cotton stash & scrap to make a summer weight chullo for my bad Spring & Summer hair!

Well. Yes. That hat was lovely.
However, I soon found out it was not the hat for me. Now it graces the lovely noggin’ of my friend Mary... before it got STOLEN!!!

I’ll make another for myself... and another for her.
They go quickly…

I have long since left the original pattern behind.

I'll post a version of the Fleur de Lys when I have it written up.


I also need to work up a pattern or video tutorial for 2-color i-cord. I want to share my “discovery” with the world.
I am in LOVE with the look of it!

Has anyone seen it done elsewhere?

Can anyone help me make a tutorial video & post it?

Monday, March 30, 2009

Bubbles!

Well. I am quite proud.

Earlier this month I completed a present for Sam which I've had on the needles for quite a while. It's been really something to get things finished, lately. I'm looking to summer

Sheldon, by Ruth Homrighaus is an adorable, affordable (free pattern & done with inexpensive cotton sportweight) project!

As you can see Sam loves it:
He even named it! He took one look at it & hugged it... Happily crying "Bubbles!"

I thought it was just one of those language flukes toddlers often have... But, later when the Godfatha' asked him where "Bubbles" was... HE WENT TO THE STUFFED ANIMAL SHELF!!!
As most knitting -oriented people may know, Sheldon has a bit of a cult following. The original designer, as well as other ravelry types have made other "shell" costumes for him to wear. There's even a Spiderman outfit! How cute is that?

I will have to make one, too. I can feel it.
I'm just waiting for inspiration to hit.

I will say this... I am a little concerned with what may come from teaching Sam that (knitted?) turtles can come out of/change their shells. Hmmmm....

Saturday, February 28, 2009

Birthday Mittens

I know. I'm an intermittent blogger at best.

I have no desire to document my life in knitting
...I merely wish to make a few records to share of the knitting in my life... & there's been precious little of that!

The most recent project in my busy life (teaching & a toddler doesn't allow for much time to create anything other than a living...) has been some simple mittens.

The Godfatha' has a birthday in February. I'm broke like everybody else, so I asked him if I could make anything for him.
The first request was for a pie.
Done!
(n.b. that is not burny-ness... the dark parts are chocolate that has bubbled up from the bottom. This will happen when one uses an entire bag of chips in an "I-can't-believe-it's-not-Derby-Pie"...)
Come on, there has to be something more for the man who makes sure my Sam is never gonna suffer single-mamma's-son issues.
All he wanted was mittens. So, mittens it was.

Who knew designing mittens could be tricky?
Well, it's not like I was really designing. I was merely adapting the things I had done to adapt the Cigar-Style Fingerless Gloves into mitten form.
I chose a Fair-Isle Style, because it gives a double thickness & warmth to the final mitty.
I know that twisting the yarn & balls can be fussy, but so worth it in the end.

The first one ended up a ladies medium/large, despite gauge & swatch & tracing measures.
(Some lady in my life is going to end up with a present of mittens soon...)
The first attempt is on the top of the photo.
I measured some more & ended up with the mittens you see in the bottom of the photo.
I like the darker tone to them... much more suited to the Godfatha' anyway.

Here is a potentially buggy free pattern transposed from my notes:

Birthday Mittens by Ruth H. Bennett

Yarn:
MC: 1 skein Black Cascade 220 (I would have preferred another ball of LP, sigh.)
CC: 1 skein Brown Sheep Lamb's Pride worsted, Prairie Fire (a heathered red)
(Your favorite worsted weight yarn would be a suitable substitution...)

Needles & Notions:
Size 5(us) DPNs
Yarn needle

Gauge:
6 sts & 7 rows = 1”

Cuff:
CO 44 sts.
Work in the round in 2x2 rib for 28 rounds for cuff.

Gusset:
1: K one round.
2: K1 in MC, Switch to CC & M1, (carry & "twist in" black as you go...)K 20, K2 in MC, K20 in CC, M1 in CC, K1 in MC=46sts.
3: K one round in MC.
4: K1 in MC, Switch to CC & M1, (carry & "twist in" black as you go...)K 21, K2 in MC, K21 in CC, M1 in CC, K1 in MC=48sts.
5: K one round in MC.
6: K1 in MC, M1, K 22 alternating MC & CC, K2 in MC, K22 alternating MC & CC, M1, K1 in MC=50sts.
7: K1 in MC, K23 alternating MC & CC (the opposite of the last row), K2 in MC, K23 alternating MC & CC.
8: K1 in MC, M1, K 23 alternating MC & CC, K2 in MC, K23 alternating MC & CC, M1, K1 in MC=52sts.
9: K1 in MC, K24 alternating CC & MC, K2 in MC, K24 alternating CC & MC.
10: K1 in MC, M1, K 24 alternating MC & CC, K2 in MC, K24 alternating MC & CC, M1, K1 in MC=54sts.
11: K1 in MC, K25 alternating CC & MC , K2 in MC, K25 alternating CC & MC, K1 in MC.
12: K1 in MC, M1, K 25 alternating MC & CC, K2 in MC, K25 alternating MC & CC, M1, K1 in MC=56sts.
13: K one round in MC
14: K1 in MC, Switch to CC (carry & "twist in" black as you go...)K 26, K2 in MC, K26 in CC, K1 in MC.
15: K one round in MC
16: K1 in MC, Switch to CC & M1, (carry & "twist in" black as you go...)K 26, K2 in MC, K26 in CC, M1 in CC, K1 in MC=58sts.
17: K one round in MC
18: K1 in MC, K27 alternating CC & MC , K2 in MC, K27 alternating CC & MC, K1 in MC.
19: K1 in MC, K27 alternating MC & CC (the opposite of the last row), K2 in MC, K27 alternating MC & CC, K1 MC.
20: K1 in MC, M1, K 27 alternating MC & CC, K2 in MC, K27 alternating MC & CC, M1, K1 in MC=60sts.
21: K1 in MC, K28 alternating CC & MC , K2 in MC, K27 alternating CC & MC, K1 in MC.
22: K1 in MC, K28 alternating MC & CC (the opposite of the last row), K2 in MC, K28 alternating MC & CC, K1 MC.
23: K1 in MC, K28 alternating MC & CC (the opposite of the last row), K2 in MC, K28 alternating MC & CC, K1 MC.
24: K1 in MC, M1, K 28 alternating MC & CC, K2 in MC, K28 alternating MC & CC, M1, K1 in MC=62sts.
25: K one round in MC
26: K1 in MC, Switch to CC (carry & "twist in" black as you go...)K 29, K2 in MC, K29 in CC, K1 in MC.

(This is where we take off the 12 sts for the thumb!)
27: K one round in MC, stop 6 sts before end, place on holder or spare DPN, put 1st 6 sts of next round on same holder.
Pull tight when starting next round.
28: K1 in MC, Switch to CC & M1, (carry & "twist in" black as you go...)K 23, K2 in MC, K23 in CC, M1 in CC, K1 in MC=52sts.
29: K one round in MC
30: K1 in MC, M1, K 24 alternating MC & CC, K2 in MC, K24 alternating MC & CC, M1, K1 in MC=54sts.
31: K1 in MC, K25 alternating MC & CC (the opposite of the last row), K2 in MC, K25 alternating MC & CC, K1 MC.
32: K1 in MC, M1, K 25 alternating MC & CC, K2 in MC, K25 alternating MC & CC, M1, K1 in MC=56sts.
33-36: K1 in MC, K26 alternating MC & CC (the opposite of the last row), K2 in MC, K26 alternating MC & CC, K1 MC.
37: K one round in MC.
38: K1 in MC, Switch to CC (carry & "twist in" black as you go...)K 26, K2 in MC, K26 in CC, K1 in MC.
39: K one round in MC.
40: K1 in MC, Switch to CC (carry & "twist in" black as you go...)K 26, K2 in MC, K26 in CC, K1 in MC.
41: K one round in MC.
42-48: K1 in MC, K26 alternating MC & CC (the opposite of the last row), K2 in MC, K26 alternating MC & CC, K1 MC.
49: K one round in MC.
50: K1 in MC, Switch to CC (carry & "twist in" black as you go...)K 26, K2 in MC, K26 in CC, K1 in MC.
51: K one round in MC.
52: K1 in MC, Switch to CC (carry & "twist in" black as you go...)K 26, K2 in MC, K26 in CC, K1 in MC.

Begin “finger cap” Decreases:

53: Break CC yarn. K one round in MC.
54-5: Knit MC. (This is where you could add more rounds if a longer finger length is needed.)
56: (K5, K2tog)* = 48 sts.
57: K3, PSSO, (K4, PSSO)* 5 times, K4, PSSO using 1st st of next row =40sts.
58: (K3, K2tog)* =32 sts.
59: K1, PSSO, (K2, PSSO)* 5 times, K2, PSSO using 1st st of next row =24sts.
60: (K1, K2tog)* =16 sts.
61: (K2tog)* =8sts.
Break Yarn. Sew end through 8 loops & pull snug.
Weave in loose ends.

Thumb:

On 3 DPNs, Place 3 sts, 6sts, 3 sts.
1: Using MC, Knit one round, Pick up 2 sts on last DPN using loose yarn edge from that side of the thumb hole = 14 sts. (**Leave a long tail when beginning row.)
2: Pick up 2 sts from the loose yarn edge from that side of the thumb hole. Knit rest of round. Sts should now be 16= 5/6/5, on 3 DPNs.
3-14: Knit.
15: (K2, K2tog)* =12sts.
16: Knit.
17: (K1, K2tog)* =8sts.
Break Yarn. Sew end through 8 loops & pull snug.
Weave in loose ends.

Finishing:
Use long tail to sew gap from thumb base together snugly. I used a blanket stitch to give it a neat finish.
Weave in all remaining loose ends.

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Andean Hats

I am taking a moment from my sick day at home to (finally) post about some knitting.
Concentrating on yummy color work sure does beat focusing on stomach cramps & even nastier symptoms of a stomach flu...

Here is a vision of knitting bliss: A basket full of neatly balled wool on the big red knitting chair... Sigh.

I usually NEVER fall for kits, but this kit from Knit Picks was too fabulous to resist!
These are the perfect gifts for my Colorado nephews…

Here is the one for the younger neph:



Here is the one for the older neph:

Well, it’s Llama Chullo II: Electric Boogaloo! The color work looks complex, but is really rather straightforward... In fact, this is an ideal project to combat Seasonal Affective Depression.

This time I’m added 16 sts to the circumference so it will fit my oldest Neph’s giant cranium.

I can’t wait to start changing the charts to have other motifs aside from the LLLLLLLLAMAS!

After this adaptation, I think I’m going to adapt the pattern to make it for old Atari system lovers… Can you say “Space Invaders Chullo”? I hope I won't run into copyright problems...

Pattern Notes:

To achieve gauge, I had to use size 4 needles. a 16' circular was fine for the body of the hat (especially on the 24" hat), but I had to switch to dpns for the crown decreases.

I ended up adding 32 sts to the crown cast on=192 sts.
My reasoning is this: the small pattern bands are based on an (8 to) 16 repeat, but the wave pattern I wanted to use instead of the alpaca motif is based on 10s. I just decreased 2 on the solid color rows before the wave motif & increased 2 again for the remaining small bands & crown decreases.
Yes, this does give you 12 instead of 10 decrease units, but the transition to 3 st. i-cord is much smoother.

So… voila! a 24” crown & an men’s large sizing!

note: If you use the large alpaca motif for your pattern (instead of the wave/ripples), you do not need to change any counts while knitting the crown.

Wednesday, December 31, 2008

The Seamless Dangly...



The Brown Monkey
(a.k.a. the seamless mr. dangly)
by Ruth H. Bennett

My mother is a shameless addict. Yep. It’s true. Thankfully, she has a good sense of humor about it all. Alcohol? Nope. Prescription Pain Pills? Nope.
She’s a junkie for high quality dark chocolate. She can’t start her day or her body in the morning without a small piece of it.
So, my sister Anne has euphemized her addiction as “the visit from the Brown Monkey”... Yes. Brown Monkey... as in “monkey on her back”.
This reference to the “Brown Monkey” pops up everywhere in our daily conversations... it’s a bona fide family inside joke at this point. I was inspired to make an actual monkey to be hidden around & pop up for a visit whenever my sister wanted or needed a laugh.
He also hangs quite nicely over your shoulders by his long arms... on your back!
(Come to think of it... I probably should have stuffed him with old Dove “Promise” wrappers instead of Fiber-fil...)

I have made several monkeys modeled after this fine pattern ( Mr. Dangly) I found on ravelry. I think his styling is beyond adorable.
Yep. I took a look at the pattern & said, these Brits sure are great knitters, but DAMN they love to knit everything in pieces & seam it all. I have a compulsion to go seamless when I am able, so I took the basic dimensions of the Dangly & worked it over as seamless pieces that are only sewn together at their joints.

Here is the address for the inspiration: http://electricbiscuitonline.blogspot.com/2005/06/clone-mr-dangly.html

Gentle Reader,

Please remember general free pattern etiquette.


Which means:
This is a free pattern & you get what you pay for. Management is not responsible for honest typos & missed counts. Please do not sell or pass this pattern off for your own.
All of my patterns are meant for personal, educational use, not for profit!
If you wish to use it for a class, please ask first... I will most likely say YES!

If you wish to share it, please link directly to my blog or my Ravelry page.
This is not copyrighted, but misuse of it will generally be found out, mocked by other knitters & punished with bad knitting karma.

Thank You.
-Ru.

The Pattern for THE BROWN MONKEY:

Yarn: Lily Sugar & Cream Solids Cotton
(just use any worsted weight yarn you like, really...)
CC: 1 skein Jute (less than 120 yds)
MC: 2 skeins Warm Brown (280 yds)

Needles: US 5 / 3.75 mm DPNs

Gauge: Not important, but 4.5 sts & 6 rows = 1”
Just keep the gauge kinda tight to hold in the stuffing

Supplies:
~Size F crochet hook
~Yarn Needle
~Poly Fiber-Fil
~Scissors
~12” of Saran Wrap
~Safety Eyes or buttons (I used bare wooden ones) in your chosen color
Optional: Little bean bags (you can use old nylons & plastic pellets!) for “feet & hands”

Head:

Row 1: Long Tail CO 6 sts over 3 DPNs using CC (Jute)
Row 2: Knit
Row 3: (M1, K1, M1, K1)* = 12 sts
Row 4: Knit
Row 5: (K1, M1, K2, M1, K1)* = 18 sts
Row 6: Knit
Row 7: (K1, M1, K4, M1, K1)* = 24 sts
Row 8: Knit
Row 9: (K1, M1, K2, M1, K2, M1, K2, M1, K1)* = 36 sts
Row 10: Knit
Row 11: (K1, M1, K4, M1, K2, M1, K4, M1, K1)* = 48 sts
Row 12: Knit
Row 13: (K1, M1, K6, M1, K2, M1, K6, M1, K1)* = 60 sts
Rows 14-19: Knit
Row 20: (K1, K2tog, K4, K2tog, K1)* =48 sts
Rows 21-24: Knit
Break Yarn, Switch to MC (Warm Brown)
Rows 25-48: Knit

(if you are using safety eyes, place them now before you start closure...)

Begin Decreases:
Row 49: (K4, K2tog)* = 40 sts
Row 50: Knit
Row 51: (K3, K2tog)* = 32 sts
Row 52: Knit
Row 53: (K2, K2tog)* = 24 sts
Row 54: Knit
(this is the time to sew the opening hole shut & stuff the head with fiber-fil...)
Row 55: (K1, K2tog)* = 16 sts
Row 56: Knit
Row 57: (K2tog)* = 8 sts
Break yarn, run tail through the 8 loops, pull tight & tie off as if finishing a beanie hat.

Body:

Row 1: Long Tail CO 12 sts over 4 DPNs using MC (Warm Brown)
Rows 2-5: Knit
Row 6: (K1, M1, K4, M1, K1)* = 16 sts
Rows 7-10: Knit
Row 11: (K1, M1, K6, M1, K1)* = 20 sts
Rows 12-15: Knit
Row 16: (K1, M1, K8, M1, K1)* = 24 sts
Rows 17-20: Knit
Row 21: (K1, M1, K10, M1, K1)* = 28 sts
Rows 22-25: Knit
Row 26: (K1, M1, K12, M1, K1)* = 32 sts
Rows 27-30: Knit
Row 31: (K1, M1, K14, M1, K1)* = 36 sts
Rows 32-35: Knit
Row 36: (K1, M1, K16, M1, K1)* = 40 sts
Rows 37-40: Knit
Row 41: (K1, M1, K18, M1, K1)* = 44 sts
Rows 42-45: Knit
Row 46: (K1, M1, K20, M1, K1)* = 48 sts
Rows 47-50: Knit
Row 51: (K1, M1, K22, M1, K1)* = 52 sts
Rows 52-55: Knit
Row 56: (K1, M1, K24, M1, K1)* = 56 sts
Rows 57-60: Knit
Row 61: (K1, M1, K26, M1, K1)* = 60 sts
Rows 62-85: Knit

Begin Decreases:
Row 86: (K4, K2tog)* = 50 sts
Row 87: Knit
Row 88: (K3, K2tog)* = 40 sts
Row 89: Knit
Row 90: (K2, K2tog)* = 30 sts
Row 91: Knit
(this is the time to sew the opening hole shut & stuff the head with fiber-fil...)
Row 92: (K1, K2tog)* = 20 sts
Row 93: Knit
Row 94: (K2tog)* = 10 sts
Break yarn, run tail through the 10 loops, pull tight & tie off as if finishing a beanie hat.

Arms (make 2):

Be sure to keep stuffing as you go... These thin limbs are hard to stuff evenly after the fact.)
Row 1: Long Tail CO 12 sts over 3 DPNs using MC (Warm Brown)
Rows 2-5: Knit
Row 6: (K1, M1, K4, M1, K1)* = 16 sts
Rows 7-36: Knit
Row 37: (K1, M1, K6, M1, K1)* = 20 sts
Rows 38-57: Knit
Row 58: (K1, M1, K1)* = 30 sts
Rows 59-60: Knit
Break Yarn, Switch to CC (Jute)
Rows 61-70: Knit

Begin Decreases:
Row 71: (K3, K2tog)* = 24 sts
Row 72: Knit
Row 73: (K2, K2tog)* = 18 sts
Row 74: Knit
Row 75: (K1, K2tog)* = 12 sts
Row 76: Knit
Row 77: (K2tog)* = 6 sts
Finish stuffing or place bean bags in the “hands” (I hope you remembered to stuff as you go)
Break yarn, run tail through the 6 loops, pull tight & tie off as if finishing a beanie hat.

Legs (make 2):

Be sure to keep stuffing as you go... These thin limbs are hard to stuff evenly after the fact.)
Row 1: Long Tail CO 12 sts over 3 DPNs using MC (Warm Brown)
Rows 2-5: Knit
Row 6: (K1, M1, K4, M1, K1)* = 16 sts
Rows 7-16: Knit
Row 17: (K1, M1, K6, M1, K1)* = 20 sts
Rows 18-37: Knit
Row 38: (K1, M1, K1)* = 30 sts
Rows 39-40: Knit
Break Yarn, Switch to CC (Jute)
Rows 41-50: Knit

Begin Decreases:
Row 51: (K3, K2tog)* = 24 sts
Row 52: Knit
Row 53: (K2, K2tog)* = 18 sts
Row 54: Knit
Row 55: (K1, K2tog)* = 12 sts
Row 56: Knit
Row 57: (K2tog)* = 6 sts
Finish stuffing or place bean bags in the “footpads” (I hope you remembered to stuff as you go)
Break yarn, run tail through the 6 loops, pull tight & tie off as if finishing a beanie hat.

Tail:

Long Tail CO 12 sts, Knit in the round for 10 “.
Use crochet hook to pull Saran Wrap through tube to stuff & trim to measure.
To close: (K2tog)* = 6 sts
Pull yarn trough loops to close.

Ears (make 2):

Row 1: Longtail CO 8 sts
Row 2: Sl1 Purl
Row 3: Sl1, M1, K6, M1, K1 = 10 sts
Row 4: Sl1, Purl
Row 5: Sl1, M1, K8, M1, K1 = 12 sts
Row 6: Sl1, Purl
Row 7: Sl1, Knit
Row 8: Sl1, Purl
Row 9: Sl1, Knit
Row 10: Sl1, Purl
Row 11: Sl1, Knit
Row 12: Sl1, Purl
Row 13: Sl1, K10, P1
Row 14: Sl1 K wise, K10, P1
Break yarn & switch to CC (Jute)
Row 15: Sl1, Knit
Row 16: Sl1, Purl
Row 17: Sl1, Knit
Row 18: Sl1, Purl
Row 19: Sl1, Knit
Row 20: Sl1, Purl
Row 21: Sl1, Knit
Row 22: Sl1, Purl
Row 23: Sl1, K2tog, K6, PSSO, K1 = 10 sts
Row 24: Sl1, Purl
Row 25: Sl1, K2tog, K4, PSSO, K1 = 8 sts
Row 26: Sl1, Purl
Row 27: BO in Knit

Weave in ends. Fold ear in half along center line of purl sts, knit side out. Align slipped stitch edges & join the 2 sides with a line of single crochet using MC (Warm Brown).
(If you are uncomfortable with even single crochet, you can use a whip stitch or even a back stitch to join the two sides of the ear, but it won't have as finished a look.)
Use the "tail" of the crochet to whip stitch the ear to the side of the head using purl bump guides, CC color facing front as shown.

Finishing:
I sewed this guy up as I went along, but you can please yourself...
I sewed the neck closed & sewed on the head near the bottom/rear...
The arms were sewed on just below the neck, as shown. The legs were sewed on along the bottom edges of the body , aligned with the increase “seams”. I sewed the ears on the sides of the head, I just eyed them in & counted knit stitches on the head to make them as even as I could.
You can now sew on buttons for eyes (if you did not use safety eyes...)or embroider nostrils or any other embellishment you like!
I gave the Brown Monkey six strands of crochet chain “hair” at the crown of his head for added character, but the customize-able possibilities are endless.

Oh... just because I haven't posted any Sam knitting photos recently...
Please note the "Brown Monkey" shoes!